Spiral Crochet Christmas Stocking
Start at the toe
working in continuously spiraling rounds
Toe
with toe color begin
with a magic ring
Round 1: sc, hdc, 10
dc into the magic ring working over the ring and the short tail.
Pull the short tail pulling your work into a round, do not pull all
the way so that you can still see your stitches (12 st)
Round 2: begin
crocheting up over the first stitches, 2dc in each stitch around
(stitch markers are helpful) (24 st) note: now is a good time to pull
the magic ring tightly closed
to make a larger
stocking you will add more rounds to the toe, add 12 extra stitches to
each round to allow the toe to grow out into a flat disc until it is
as large as you want. Experiment to see what size works best for
you.
Round 3: dc in each
stitch around until the last 2 stitches. Hdc in next st, sc in next
st, fasten off toe color.
Foot
With main color
(MC), attach in any stitch around on the toe.
Round 1: sc in st where you joined on, hdc in next st, dc in each stitch around.
Note: Once you come
back around to the first stitches of round 1 you will no longer work
into the toe but into foot (MC) stitches
Round 2: work a
modified dc in the first MC st (the sc), dc in next stitch (the hdc),
dc in each st around
Note: Modified dc –
yo, insert hook into the space between your last stitch and the sc
you will work into next, this space is an occupied stitch, the stitch
that the sc was worked into at the beginning of the foot, yo pull up
a loop, insert your hook into the first sc of the MC, yo, pull up a
loop, yo, pull through 3 loops, yo, pull through 2 loops. The
modified dc will act just like a normal dc
Round 3 to the end: dc in each
st around. Work rounds of the MC making the tube part of the foot,
continue until its as long as you like. Mine was a total of 6 inched
measuring from the tip of the toe. Pull up a long loop on the MC but
do not fasten off or cut the yarn. Look over your project and see if
there is any imperfection at the junction between the toe and the
foot that you would like to hide, this will become the bottom. If
there is no imperfection then just choose whichever side to be the
bottom. Flatten the tube, putting any imperfection at the bottom
(the sole of the foot).
To make striped foot you will need to attach 2 or more colors. Attach the colors evenly around onto the toe. Each color will remain attached for the entire construction of the foot. Start each color with sc, hdc, dc to ramp the colors up. As each color moves up over the other color you may want to do a modified dc as previously explained. Once your stripe colors are attached you will work several stitches in one color, then drop that color and begin working in the other color. The stitches will chase each other around. It may be helpful to refer to my spiral mitten pattern or spiral baby mitten pattern and tutorial which is done in a similar way. If you have trouble understanding I can make a second video tutorial for the striped version, just leave a comment.
To make striped foot you will need to attach 2 or more colors. Attach the colors evenly around onto the toe. Each color will remain attached for the entire construction of the foot. Start each color with sc, hdc, dc to ramp the colors up. As each color moves up over the other color you may want to do a modified dc as previously explained. Once your stripe colors are attached you will work several stitches in one color, then drop that color and begin working in the other color. The stitches will chase each other around. It may be helpful to refer to my spiral mitten pattern or spiral baby mitten pattern and tutorial which is done in a similar way. If you have trouble understanding I can make a second video tutorial for the striped version, just leave a comment.
Heel
Heel color can match
the foot, match the toe, or be a new color.
The heel is
attached, worked in rows, turning at the end of each row. The rows
will decrease, then increase making an hourglass shape. Once the
heel is stitched we will sew 2 small seams to shape the heel. You
can make the heel any width but my suggestion is half the total
number of stitches in the round. The example shown in 24 stitches in
each round, so the heel begins with 12 stitches. You want to place
the 12 stitches evenly along the bottom edge so that half are on the front side of the stocking and half are on the back side. For larger stockings
you will divide your total stitches in each round of the foot in
half.
Row 1: attach the
yarn in the stitch that is 6 stitches before the bottom most stitch.
Sc in the st you joined on the yarn, hdc in the next st, dc in the
next 8 stitches, hdc in the next st, sc in the next st. ch 2 turn
(12 st)
Row 2: dc2tog, then
another dc2tog, dc in each st across to the last 4 st, dc2tog then
another dc2tog. Ch 2 turn (8 st)
Row 3: 4 dc2tog
across, ch 2 turn (4 st)
Note: for larger
stockings you may have to do another row with 2 decreases at the
beginning and 2 decreases at the end
Row 4: 1 dc in each
st across, ch 2 turn (4 st)
Row 5: 2dc in the
first 2 st, 2 dc in last 2 st, ch 2 turn (8 st)
Row 6: 2dc in first
2 st, dc across to last 2 st, 2dc in the last two st. fasten
off leaving a long tail to seam the heel (12 st)
the rows you made
should resemble an hourglass. Fold the hourglass in half, right
sides together, match row 6 to row 1, row 5 to row 2 and so on. Using
the tail and a yarn needle, sew up the sides of the rows. Work the
yarn across to the opposite side and sew the seam on the other side
in the same way. Once the seams are sown the rest of that tail will
be woven in to hide it. The heel is complete. Make sure you have 12
stitches across the top of the heel.
Leg
Continue with
the foot color(s)
Round 1: work 1 dc
in each st around. At the point in which the stitches move up onto the heel you may want to do the modified dc as you
did earlier to avoid a gap as your stitches bump up onto the heel
Round 2 1 dc in
each st around
Continue with round 2 until the leg is as long as you want
Continue with round 2 until the leg is as long as you want
Periodically count stitches to make sure you still have the same number of stitches as you had in the foot. Once the foot is as long as you like you will ease down by making a hdc in the second to last st, and then a sc in the last st. You will want your last stitches to be near the back side of the stocking, where the hanging loop will be.
Ch 21 for the hanging
loop. You can fasten the chain back down to the stocking for the
loop or you can make the chain a bit more sturdy by sl st back down
the length of the chain then attaching the far end of your chain back
down onto the stocking forming a loop. Leave a tail which you can
use to reinforce the hanging loop onto the stocking once you are
finished with the stocking.
Cuff (optional)
(use the
heel/toe color or a new color)
Foundation: working
from the inside of the stocking, attach the cuff color in the st
after the st you made the hanging loop in. sc around putting 4
increases evenly around. Sl st into the first st to join the round (28 st) adding these 4 extra stitches will make your cuff just
slightly wider than the stocking so once it is folded down it will
lay nicely instead of bunching up.
Ribbing row 1: ch
11, turn
Ribbing row 2: in second ch from the hook sc in
back loop of each st down the chain (10 st) sc into next 2 sc on the
foundation round, turn
Ribbing row 3:
working back up the previous row, sc in the back loop of each sc
up the ribbing, ch 1 turn
Ribbing Row 4: sc in
the back loop of each sc down the ribbing, sc in next 2 sc on the
foundation round, turn.
Repeat rows 3-4
around. Once you have come all the way back around you will work
into the last row as well as the first row at the same time. This
will close up the back seam of the ribbing. To do this you will
insert your hook into the back loop of the sc of the previous row as
you had been doing and also the corresponding loop on the first row
of the ribbing, sc, repeat until your last row is complete and the
seam is closed up. Fasten off
Finishing
Hide ends, fold down
cuff, fill with goodies.