Easy No Seam Thumbless Baby Mittens ~ No Scratch Mits

These mittens are very similar to the Spiral Baby Mittens only worked in a single color.
This pattern is written in US crochet terms.  I used acrylic worsted weight yard and a size H crochet hook.  You will only need a small amount, about 2 ounces total

1. Ch 4, working into the top loop only,  2 sc in 2nd ch from the hook, 1 sc in top loop of next ch, 2 sc in top loop of next ch\
2. Turn your work upside down, working into the other loop of the foundation chain, 2 sc in the other loop of the st you just worked into, 1 sc into the other loop of the next st, 2 sc in the other loop of the last st
3. Now you will be working under both loops on each stitch as usual. You will not join round with a sl st and you will not turn your work. Place 2 sc in the first sc (this will count as your first increase on this short end, the 2nd increase will occur once you have gone all the way around), then 1 sc in each of the next 3 stitches down the long side, 2 sc in the next 2 sc (here are the 2 increases for this short end), 1 sc in each sc going down the long side
4. Continue spiraling around, increasing by 2 stitches on the short ends, until you have 20 stitches around  You will end with just 1 increase (the first increase was already completed at the beginning of that round)
5. Once you have 20 st you will not longer be increasing on the short ends. Place 1 sc in each stitch. Continue spiraling until the mitten measures 3 inches long (for 0-6 month size) or 3.5 inches (6-12 month size)
6. Next you will work one row of eyelets to lace the drawstring through. To make this row you will *ch 1, skip 1 st, 1 hdc in next st, repeat from * around until you have 10 holes. The 1st and 10th hole will end up on different rows, this is expected and the nature of spiral crochet. Once the drawstring is in it will not be noticeable.
7.  Work 2 sc into the ch 1 space.
8. Now continue sc in each st for 3-4 more rows to make a cuff. Add an increase to the short ends of each row of the cuff to flare it out a little, making it easier to get onto baby's hand.

Once the cuff is as long as you like, fasten off by working a final sl st into the mitten and fasten off  Weave in ends.

For the drawstring: Ch 60 (or as long as you like), fasten off. Tie an overhand knot at each end, weave through the eyelets and tie a bow

I created this pattern and tutorial, please link back to this original pattern or the video tutorial when sharing.  Thanks you

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Rumpled Ripple Rainbow Crochet Baby Afghan Pattern

After I finished my Rumpled Ripple Scarf I knew my next project would be to expand that pattern into an afghan size.  The pattern in essentially the same but for the afghan (and anything larger than a scarf) the foundation chain will need to be more repeats.

This pattern is so squishy and soft and I knew it would make a perfect baby blanket.  I chose an a rainbow of colors, making it as bright and colorful as possible.  This blanket is off to Sweden to the newest baby in our family.

This pattern uses US crochet terms.  I used a variety of acrylic worsted weight yarn. The colors I used
Red - Red Heart Soft Really Red
Orange - Red Heart Super Saver Pumpkin
Yellow- Lion Brand Vanna's Choice Radiant Yellow
Light Green - Lion Brand Vanna's Choice Radiant Lime
Dark Green - Lion Brand Vanna's Choice Kelley Green
Blue Red Heart Soft Teal
Purple - Stitch Studio by Nicole Story Book Lullaby Mulberry
The hook I used was size I.  This finished size of this blanket was about 38" square but your project may end up larger or smaller depending on your hook, yarn and tension.  It may be best to stitch of a swatch of several rows of 1-2 repeats then calculate how many repeats you want based on the finished size you are wanting.

Rumpled Ripples Rainbow Baby Afghan

Special Stitches

Cobble Pattern - alternating dc and sc (each segment of the cobble pattern will be 7 stitches long and start and end with double crochet)

Increase - sc, dc, sc all in the same st

Decrease (worked over 3 stitches)- insert hook into the st, yo, pull up a loop, skip the next st, insert hook into the next st, yo, pull up a loop, yo and pull through all three loops on the hook

Beginning of row decrease (worked over the first 2 stitches of each row starting with row 2)- insert hook into the st, yo and pull up a loop, yo and insert hook into the next st, yo and pull up a loop, yo and pull through 2 loops, yo and pull through all three loops on the hook - This stitch counts as a dc

End of row decrease (worked over the last 2 stitches of each row starting with row 2) - yo and insert the hook into the st, yo and pull up a loop, yo and pull through 2 loops, insert the hook into the next st, yo and pull up a loop, yo and pull through all three loops on the hook- This stitch counts as a dc

Pattern

Video tutorial of this stitch pattern can be found HERE

Foundation chain: ch multiples of 18 -1 (17, 35, 53, 71 etc)  For this afghan I did 9 repeats and my foundation chain was 161.

Row 1: dc in 3rd ch from hook (counts as the first dc in the cobble pattern), *work the cobble pattern for a total of 7 stitches up the side of the front mountain.  Increase in the next ch, work the cobble for a total of 7 stitches down the back side of the mountain, decrease over the next 3 stitches, repeat from * across.  Do not work the final decrease at the very end, just end with the 7 stitches down the back side of the last mountain. Ch 1 turn.

Row 2: Work beginning of row decrease over the first 2 stitches (counts as the first dc of the cobble pattern), *work the cobble pattern for 7 stitches up the front side of the mountain, increase, work cobble pattern for 7 stitches down the back side of the mountain, decrease over the next 3 st, repeat from * across.  Do not work the final decrease, instead work the end of row decrease over the last 2 stitches (will count as the last dc in the cobble pattern), ch 1 turn.

Row 3 and onward: Repeat row 2 changing colors as you like until your project is as long as  you like.  For my project I did 3 rows of each color before changing to the next color.  For the best results from this pattern I recommend using as least 2 colors.

To change colors:  

I find I get the best results if I change colors by finishing the last stitch of the row with the new color.  For this pattern that will be the End of Row Decrease stitch.  Work the stitch as normal but just before the final "yarn over and pull through all three loops on the hook" drop the working yarn to the back, and holding the new color yarn from the back work the final "yarn over and pull through all three loops on the hook" in the new yarn.  The tails from this color change will need to be woven into the work with a yarn needle at the end.

This pattern and these photos are my own work.  Please link back to this blog post when sharing.  Thank you!

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DIY Wooden Blocks ~ Easy Wood Toy

Perhaps its an over idealistic notion but I hope to be able to make a handmade gift for my child(ren) each year for Christmas.  For my little one's first Christmas I made her a very simple fabric doll.  It is lopsided and simple but I loved making it for her and she has loved playing with it.

This year I decided the gift I wanted to make was a set of wooden blocks.  Only problem is, I don't know the first thing about making wood toys.  I looked online and most instructions are geared towards hobbyist and wood workers with a workshop to rival Santa's elves.  I don't have many tools of my own, but luckily my dad does.  I used his tabletop mitre saw and carpenters square. 

Making blocks usually requires you to rip cut, or cut the board lengthwise, to get small narrow pieces.  That is difficult to do and usually requires a table saw.  Instead I found long narrow hobby boards that didn't need to be rip cut.  They are made of nice hardwood.  I picked poplar but they also had oak and maple.  They were already the perfect width and depth, I just needed to cut them into the size blocks that I wanted.  That is where the power saw came in.

The boards I bought were 1 1/2 inches by 1 1/2 inches.  I cut twelve blocks 1 1/2 inches long to make cubes, I cut six into three inch lengths and four into  4 1/2 inch lengths.  In total I made 22 blocks.  I liked these sizes because you could stack a 3 inch and a 1 1/2 inch block together to fit beside a 4 1/2 block.  Or two 1 1/2 inch blocks next to a 3 inch block.  It all seemed nice and proportional.

After I cut the boards I needed to sand them.  The poplar cut pretty easily even though I had never used that kind of power saw before.  I had a few rough cut edges and a little bit of minor splintering.  I sanded the blocks by hand. If I had access to a belt sander I would have loved to use one.  It took me a couple hours to sand all the blocks.  I wanted to smooth them as well as blunt the corners and points.

Once the blocks were sanded I wanted to add some color.  I knew I didn't want to paint them.  The poplar has some beautiful wood grain that I wanted to show.  I instead opted to dye the wood with food coloring.  I started with one color, yellow, red, blue and green.  Then I started mixing two colors.  Mixing blue with green, mixing red with yellow, mixing red with blue and so on.  Once I had those in-between colors I continued to mix until I had 22 unique shades.

I let the blocks dry overnight and when I went to check on them on the morning I found that the dye rubbed off the blocks.  I washed the blocks under running water to rinse the majority of the dye out of the wood then let them dry again.  This time there was only very minor color transfer even with vigorous scrubbing.

My last step was to condition and polish the wood.  I made a batch of Woodmouse beeswax wood polish using coconut oil and beeswax.  I rubbed the wood polish into the wood, let it soak in for a couple hours them I buffed the blocks with a clean cotton cloth.  I added essential oils to the leftover wood polish and gifted it to my mom as a lip balm/cuticle cream/rough skin treatment. Two gifts in one! 

These blocks were a labor of love.  Made for my sweet girl for her second Christmas.  I'm really proud of how they turned out and I hope she has lots of fun with them.

Santa Baby, Long Stocking Cap Crochet Pattern

This hat turned out so cute.  I made it just for personal use but I thought others may like to make one as well.  Like so many of my patterns, this hat is worked in a continuous spiral.  It is so much easier than joining rows and makes for a seamless hat.  I made this hat in classic Santa Claus colors but you could make it in any color combination you like.

This pattern is written with US crochet terms.  You may want to use a stitch marker or a scrap piece of yarn to make the start of each row.  I find its easy enough without stitch markers, so long as you can finish a row before putting it down, and keep track of which row you are on if you do need to set it down.  I have put the stitch count at the end of each row so you can double check yourself as you go.

You will need about 3 ounces of worsted weight yarn in the main color, 1 ounce or less of contrasting color, size H crochet hook (or a similar size would also work), a pom pom maker or a way to make a pom pom or tassel (there are lots of directions online to make pom poms without a pom pom maker) and a length of 1/4 inch elastic (optional)




Long Stocking Cap
With main color, begin with a magic ring, or alternatively you can ch 3, sl st in 3rd ch from the hook to form a loop and work your first stitches into that loop.
Row 1) 1 sc, 1 hdc, 1 dc into the magic ring or loop. (3 stitches)
Row 2) continue around, do not join or start a new row, just continuously spiral around.  Put 2 dc in the first sc you make in row 1, then 2 dc in the next stitch which is the hdc, then 2 dc in the 3rd st from row 1 which is the dc  (6 st)
Row 3) 1 dc in each st around (6 st)
Row 4) *2 dc in the next st, 1 dc in the next 1 st, repeat from * 2 more times (9 st)
Row 5) repeat row 3 (9 st)
Row 6) *2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next 2 st, repeat from * 2 more times (12 st)
Row 7) repeat row 3 (12 st)
Row 8) *2 dc in the next st, 1 dc in the next 3 st, repeat from * 2 more times (15 st)
Row 9) repeat row 3 (15 st)
Row 10) *2 dc in the next st, 1 dc in the next 4 st, repeat from * 2 more times (18 st)
Row 11) repeat row 3 (18 st)
Row 12) *2 dc in the next st, 1 dc in the next 5 st, repeat from * 2 more times (21 st)
Row 13) repeat row 3 (21 st)
Row 14) *2 dc in the next st, 1 dc in the next 6 st, repeat from * 2 more times (24 st)
Row 15) repeat row 3 (24 st)
Row 16) *2 dc in the next st, 1 dc in the next 7 st, repeat from * 2 more times (27 st)
Row 17) repeat row 3 (27 st)
Row 18) *2 dc in the next st, 1 dc in the next 8 st, repeat from * 2 more times (30 st)
Row 19) repeat row 3 (30 st)

can you see where this is going?  you need to continue alternating rows in which you increase by 3 stitches, and rows in which you do not increase at all.

As the hat gets longer is also gets larger around the end.  Just continue in this fashion until the opening of the hat is large enough to fit.  The tail should be correspondingly long enough but if you would like it longer you can do row 3 (the row with no increases) several times to make the hat longer but not larger around.

Once your hat is as long as you like, switch to a new color if you would like a contrasting color for the brim.  Otherwise continue with the same color.  Repeat row 3 (the row with no increases)  5 or more times.  The larger the hat, the larger the brim should be to look balanced.

Finish the hat with a pom pom or tassel on the tip of the tail.  The weight of the pompom/tassel will pull the tail down so that it hangs properly, otherwise your hat may look more like a gnome's hat rather than a jolly old elf's hat.  To fit my little one better I added some 1/4 inch elastic.  Weave in through the dc of the last row in main color.  Once the brim is folded up it will hide the elastic and it provides a better fit.

I hope you enjoy this pattern.  Feel free to make this for your self, to give as a gift or to donate.  No commercial license are available, please do not sell this pattern or the finished item for profit.  It was designed and written by me, please credit me as designer and link back to this original pattern when sharing.  I appreciate your ongoing support, its the only way I can continue to produce patterns and tutorials.

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Simple and Sweet Baby Afghan Pattern and Tutorial

It's baby-palooza in my neck of the woods.  So many friends are having babies and I would love for each one of them to have a special hand made gift from me.  I love handmade gifts for babies for so many reasons.  They are frugal but don't have to look like it. They are a special way to tell the new little one (and mama!) that they are so loved and cherished that you spent a commodity greater than money.  You spent TIME crafting a gift as one of a kind as they are.  While I am taking that precious time to create the gift I like to offer special prayers for the family.  The rhythm of crochet lends itself to prayer and meditation, its the reason so many people enjoy it so much.

As much as I would love to devote hours and hours special intentions for each brand new human.... I have a brand new human of my own to care for (and laundry to fold).  I have a go-to baby blanket pattern that I have used many times but I was looking for something new.  Something that can be done quickly and without too much counting or thought.  I sometimes only get a few minutes to crochet at the end of the day, the last thing my tired brain needs is a complicated pattern.  Bonus points its worked up all in one color so I don't have to go back and weave in ends.

I created this pattern for my most recent baby blanket.  The pattern is very easy.  Repetitive enough that I can work on it without it taking my whole attention but no so repetitive that it's... well, repetitive.




This pattern uses US crochet terms.  The finished size is around 30 inches square.  You can adjust the finished size by adjusting the foundation chain and the number of rows.  Materials needed are: 14 ounces worsted weight yarn (I used Bernat Satin in color Fern), size I crochet hook, yarn needle and scissors.

Special Stitches
Double Crochet 3 Together (dc3tog)
Yo, insert hook into the first st, yo and pull up a loop, yo and pull through 2 loops on the hook.  You have 2 loops on hook.  Yo, insert hook into the next st, yo and pull up a loop, yo and pull thorough 2 loops on the hook.  You have 3 loops on the hook.  Yo, insert the hook into the next st, yo and pull up a loop, yo and pull through 2 loops on the hook.  You have 4 loops on the hook.  Yo and pull through all 4 loops on the hook.

Foundation
Ch 134 (or any multiple of 3 + 5)
Row 1: Skip first 4 ch from the hook, *dc3tog over the next 3 ch, ch 2, repeat from * to the end of the foundation ch.  Dc in the very last ch of the foundation chain.
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, 2 sc in the first ch 2 sp, *3 sc in the next ch 2 sp, repeat from * across, 3 sc in the last space made by the turning ch.
Row 3:  Ch 4, skip the very first st, *dc3tog over the next 3 st, ch 2, repeat from * across, dc in the last sc.
Repeat rows 2 and 3 ending on row 3 for a total of 72 rows or until the project is as long as you like.
Finishing:
Sc around all four sides as a simple border.  To begin, ch 1 to ease around the corner.  Working down the first side work 2 sc around the dc at the ends of row 3 and 1 sc in the ends of row 2, ch 1 to ease around the corner.  Along the bottom edge work 1 sc into the remaining loop of each ch of the foundation ch, ch 1 to ease around the corner.  Work up the other side as you did the first side, ch 1 to ease around the corner. Working along the top edge, put 3 sc in each ch 2 sp, sl st into the beginning ch1 of the border, fasten off.  Weave in ends.


Here is a close up photo of the beginning of row 3 to show exactly where you will start.  I hope this helps :)

This pattern and tutorial is my own creations.  Please credit me as designer and link to the original pattern or video when sharing.  This pattern is available at no charge to you for your own personal use, to make a gift, or to donate.  I ask that you do not sell finished items and do not sell this pattern or claim it as your own.  Thank you

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DIY Washable Nursing Pads

When I was pregnant I had dreams of making all sorts of things for baby and myself.  Nesting hit me hard but most of my time was spent in the kitchen.  One thing I was able to craft for after baby was nursing pads.  I made some from pretty green flannel and I made some from some old ratty t-shirts.  I thought the flannel ones would be so comfortable and soft and most importantly...a pretty green color.  As it turns out, the flannel would stick to tender spots and leave lint.  They were also a bit stiff  and generally were the last I reached for.  The old ratty t-shirts that had been washed countless times were perfectly soft, perfectly lint free, and perfectly flexible.  After more than a year, I still use them every single day.

I made them with four layers of fabric.  I found that it was the perfect thickness, thin enough to double up when needed, but substantial enough to stand on their own once things settled into a routine.  I do not include a waterproof layer in these pads.  I never found it was necessary and I have even read that it could be problematic by holding moisture close to the skin.  I simply change out the wet pad for a new dry one.

The t-shirts I used were 100% cotton and mostly old undershirt, plain white tees.  At first I was lamenting that I they weren't cute colors or prints but I found that the plain white and black worked best at staying hidden.  My nursing bras were plain black and white and a brightly colored pad would just love to peek out!

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Rainbow Swirl Bonnet

I had so much fun making the Rainbow Swirl Hat that I wanted to make a bonnet version.  Make this bright and colorful bonnet for your fun little girl.

Rainbow Swirl Bonnet

Each round will begin with working with red, then each color in turn, finishing with lavender. With so many working yarns, you may have tangles. Mostly the yarns are just twisted, spinning your work in the opposite directions is usually all that is needed. I recommend untwisting and untangling your yarns at the end of each round to prevent a unmanageable tangle.

When you leave a color, be sure to pull up a long loop to prevent any stitches from being pulled out during handling. When you pick that color up again, make sure the long loop is tightened back down onto the hook to ensure the proper tension.

The first 9 rows are exactly the same as the Rainbow Swirl hat which has a video that may be helpful as you make this bonnet.  Click here to see the video on YouTube

This pattern uses US crochet terms.  If you have any questions about this pattern, leave a comment and I will do my best to help you.

You will need less than 1/2 ounce of worsted weight yarn in red, orange, yellow, green, blue, purple and scraps of white for the edging and ties.  Size G crochet hook will make a 6 month size and H hook will give you 9-12 month size.

Rainbow Swirl Bonnet

1. With red, make a magic loop then 1 sc, 1 hdc, pull up a long loop. Join on orange, ch 1, hold the short tail against the magic ring hiding the short tail as you work, work 1 sc, 1 hdc, pull up a long loop, repeat step with the remaining colors in order, yellow, green, blue, purple.
2. Pick up red, work 2 hdc into the orange sc, pull up a long loop, repeat with each color in turn.
3. Pick up red, work 1 hdc in the first orange st, 2 hdc in the next st, repeat with each color in turn.
4. Pick up red, work 1 hdc in each of the next 3 st, repeat with each color in turn
5. repeat step 4
6. Pick up red, work 1 hdc, then 2 hdc, then 1 hdc, repeat with each color in turn
7. Pick up red, work 1 hdc in the next 3 st, 2 hdc in next st, repeat with each color in turn
8. Pick up red, work 1 hdc in the next 2 st, 2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 2 st, repeat with each color in turn
9. Pick up red, work 1 hdc in next 5 st, 2 hdc in next st, repeat with each color in turn.
10. Pick up orange, work 1 sc, then 1 sl st, fasten off, repeat with each color except red.
11. Pick up red, work 1 hdc in each stitch all the way around, over the orange, yellow, green, blue and purple, work 1 sc in the last lavender st, then work 1 sl st in the next (red) st, fasten off red.
12. Skip 7 st, in the 8th st, join on orange, 1hdc in the same st, 1 hdc in each st around, fasten off orange
13. turn work, join on yellow, work 1 hdc in the same st and in each st around, fasten off yellow
14. repeat step 13 with green, blue, purple, red, orange, yellow, green, blue, purple.
15. To finish: Turn, join on white, 1 hdc in the same st and in each st around, ch 45, sl st in 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch back up the tie, sl st into the bottom edge of the bonnet.  Continue a sc border around the bottom edge, putting 1-2 sc in the end of each row.  Once you finish the sc border along the bottom edge and you are back to the front edge, ch 45 and sl st into the 2nd ch from the hook and in each chain back up to the bonnet for the 2nd tie.  Sl st back into the bottom edge of the bonnet, ch 1, sl st into the first hdc of the border to join the round.  Fasten off and weave in ends.

Check out my other baby patterns
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Added to the "It's Finally Friday" Link-a-long at GoCrochet Crazy
This post was submitted to Hookin on Hump Day on Moogly

Baby Teether Toy

My baby loves playing with crochet swatches so I made a few toys just for her.  Made with cotton yarn, these toys can be wet and frozen to give cool soothing relief to sore gums.  Your baby will love the bright contrasting colors and textures.

You only need scraps of cotton yarn such as Sugar 'n Cream.  I used a size G crochet hook but you can use any similar sized hook.

This pattern uses US crochet terms, if you have any questions about this pattern, leave a comment and I will do my best to help you out.

Teething Toys

As with all toys, supervise baby at play and remove any toys which become damaged or unsafe.

Triangle Teether
Special stitches used: fpdc = front post double crochet; bpdc = back post double crochet; popcorn
To make the popcorn stitch: *yo, insert the hook into the st, yo and pull up a loop, yo and pull through 2 loops on the hook, repeat from * 4 more times working into the same st, yo and pull through all the loops on the hook.

Foundation: with black, ch 15, sl st in 1st ch to form a ring.
1. Ch 1, *1 sc in next 4 st, 3sc in next st, repeat from * 2 more times, sl st in first sc to join round
2. Ch 1, 1 sc in next 4 st, 3 sc in next st, *1 sc in next 6 st, repeat from *2 more times, 1 sc in next 2 st, sl st in first sc to join round, fasten off. Your work should be a triangle with 27 st around, 8 stitches on each side and 1 stitch in each corner. The corner st will not be worked into.
3. Find the center sc of any corner, in the next st join on blue and ch 3, 1dc in next 7 st.
4. Ch 3, turn, *1fpdc in the next st, 1 bpdc in next st, repeat from * 2 more times, 1dc in top of ch 3.
5. Repeat row 3, fasten off
6. Find the center sc of the next corner, in the next st join on yellow and ch 3, skip 1 st, [dc, ch 3, dc] in the next st, skip 2 st, [dc, ch 3, dc] in the next st, skip 1 st, dc in next st
7. Ch 1, turn, 1 sc in space between the first 2 dc, 3 sc in ch 3 sp, 3 sc in next ch 3 sp, 1 sc in space between the dc and beginning ch.
8. Ch 3, turn, *skip 2 st, [dc ch 3, dc] in next st, repeat from * once, skip 2 st, dc in last st
9. repeat row 7, fasten off
10. Find the center of the last corner, in the next st join on red, ch 2, *popcorn st in next st, sc in next st, repeat from * 2 more times, dc in last st.
11. Ch 2, turn, *popcorn in the next st, sc in next st, repeat from * 2 more times,
12. repeat row 11
13. repeat row 11, fasten off.
14. Weave in ends, launder to remove any residual dye or processing chemicals before giving to baby.

Circle Teether

Foundation: with black, ch 17, sl st to first ch to form a ring

1. ch 1*1 sc in next ch, 2sc in next ch, repeat from * 7 more times, sl st into beginning ch 1 to join the round
2. ch 1, *1 sc in next 3 st, 2 sc in next st, repeat from * 5 more times, sl st in first sc to join round, fasten off.
3. Join red on any st, sc in same st, 1sc in next 4 st
4. *ch 1 turn, 1sc in each st across, repeat from * 4 more times for a total of 6 rows, fasten off.
5. repeat step 3-4 for each color in turn
6. weave in ends, launder to remove any residual dye or processing chemicals before giving to baby.

Square Teether

Foundation: with black, ch 17, sl st into first st to join round

1. ch 1, *1 sc in next 3 st, 3sc in next st, repeat from * 3 more times, sl st in beginning ch 1 to join
2. ch 1, 1 sc in next 4 st, 3sc in next st, *1 sc in next 5 st, 3 sc in next st, repeat from * 2 more times, 1 sc in next st, sl st to beginning ch 1 to join round, fasten off
3. find the center sc of any corner and join on green. Skip 3 st, 8 tr in the next st, skip 3 st, sl st into the next st.
4. repeat step 3 with orange, yellow and purple on the other 3 sides.
5. weave in ends, launder to remove any residual dye or processing chemicals before giving to baby.
   
   
   
   
   Check out my other baby patterns
   Spiral Baby Mittens
   Sunshine and Rainbows Bonnet
   Daisy Bonnet
   Rainbow Swirl Bonnet
   
   
   
   

Spiral Baby Mittens

These mittens are great for cold weather or for no-scratch mittens.

This pattern uses US crochet terms.  If you have any questions about this pattern, leave a comment and I will do my best to help you out.

You will need small amounts of acrylic worsted weight yarn.  Use a size G crochet hook for a 0-6 month size and size H crochet hook for a 6-12 month size.  You will also need a blunt yarn needle for weaving in ends, a tape measure or ruler and a pair of scissors.



 Spiral Baby Mittens

Note: This pattern is worked in a spiral fashion with 2 colors joined onto the work through out the pattern.  You will be only working with one color as a time.  When you leave a color, pull up a long loop to help prevent your stitches from being pulled out during handling.  When you pick up that color again, make sure you pull the working tail to pull the loop back down onto the hook so you will have an even tension.

1.  With the first color, ch 4, working into the top loop only,  2 sc in 2nd ch from the hook, 1 sc in top loop of next ch, 2 sc in top loop of next ch, pull up a long loop
2. Turn your work upside down, working into the other loop of the foundation chain, join on contrasting color and ch 1, 2 sc in the other loop of the st you just worked into, 1 sc into the other loop of the next st, 2 sc in the other loop of the last st, pull up a long loop
3. Pick up the first color and pull the loop back down onto the hook to ensure an even tension. Working around in a spiral fashion sc into the stitches of the contrasting color. You will not join round with a sl st and you will not turn your work. Place 2 sc in the first st, then 1 sc in each of the next 3 stitches down the long side, pull up a long loop
4. Pick up the contrasting color again and repeat step 3
5. Pick up the first color and place 2 sc in the next 2 st, then 1 sc in each stitch down the long side
6. Pick up the contrasting color and repeat step 5
7. continue spiraling around, increasing by 2 stitches on the short ends, until you have 20 stitches around
8. Once you have 20 st you will not longer be increasing on the short ends. Place 1 sc in each stitch. Continue spiraling until the mitten measures 3 inches long (for 0-6 month size) or 3.5 inches (6-12 month size)
9. Next you will work one row of eyelets to lace the drawstring through. To make this row you will *ch 1, skip 1 st, 1 hdc in next st, repeat from * around until you have 10 holes. The 1st and 10th hole will end up on different rows, this is expected and the nature of spiral crochet. Once the drawstring is in it will not be noticeable. The next row (in the other color) will be worked over this eyelet row by placing 2 sc into the ch 1 space.
10. Now continue sc in each st for 3-4 more rows to make a cuff. Increase each row by 2-3 st evenly around. These increases will help the cuff flare out a bit and make it easier to get onto baby's hand.

Once the cuff is as long as you like, fasten off the 2 colors by working a final sl st into the mitten and fasten off the first color. Work the second color over the previous color, put 1 sl st into the sl st on the previous color, then 1 sl st into the mitten and fasten off. Weave in ends.

For the drawstring: Ch 60, fasten off. Tie an overhand knot at each end, weave through the eyelets and tie a bow

Please link back to this original pattern when sharing.

Check out my other baby patterns
Daisy Bonnet
Sunshine and Rainbows Bonnet

Rainbow Swirl Bonnet
Baby Teether Toys

Sunshine and Rainbows Bonnet Pattern

Here is my newest bonnet pattern.  Perfect for those bright, sunny but still chilly spring days.  This bonnet has a happy sunshine on the back and a colorful rainbow arcing over the top.

This bonnet is made with worsted weight acrylic yarn.  You will need 2 ounces in light blue, 1 ounce in yellow and 5-6 yards of each color in the rainbow.  Use a size G hook for a 6 month size and a size H hook for a size 9-12 month size.

This pattern uses US crochet terms.  If you have any questions, leave a comment and I will do my best to help you out.

Sunshine and Rainbows Bonnet

Special Stitches Used 

hdc4tog – this stitch is worked over 4 stitches. Yo and insert hook in the first st, yo and pull up a loop, yo and insert the hook into the 2nd st, yo and pull up a look, yo and insert the hook into the 3rd st, yo and pull up a loop, yo and insert the hook into the 4th st, yo and pull up a loop, yo and pull through all 9 loops on the hook

hdc3tog – this stitch is made in the same way as hdc4tog but only over 3 stitches 

hdc – half double crochet – yo and insert the hook into the st, yo and pull through all 4 loops on the hook

Foundation: Ch 3, sl st in 3rd ch from the hook to form a ring

Rnd 1. ch 2, 9 dc in ring, sl st to top of beginning ch 2 to join

Rnd 2. ch 3, 2 dc in each stitch around, sl st in top of beginning ch 

Rnd 3. *ch 6, turn and work back down the backside of the chain, skip for first 2 ch from the hook, sl st in next ch, sc in next ch, dc in next ch, tr in last ch, now you are working back in the round again, skip 2 dc and sl st in 3rd dc, repeat from * 6 more times

Rnd 4. *1 sc in the 5 stitches up the point, ch 1, 1 sc in each stitch back down the 5 stitches down the backside of the point, skip the sl st at the bottom of the valley, repeat from * 6 more times

Rnd 5. join the main color in the ch1 at the tip of any point, ch 3 (counts as sc + ch 2) then sc in the same ch, *sc in next st, hdc in next 2 st, hdc4tog, hdc in next 2 st, sc in next st, [sc, ch 2, sc] in ch at tip of the point, repeat from * around 5 more times, sc in next st, hdc in next 2 st, hdc4tog, hdc in next 2 st, sc in last st, sl st into ch 2 space to join the round.

Rnd 6. Ch 3 (counts as sc + ch 2), sc in same ch 2 space, *sc in next st, hdc in next 2 st, hdc3tog, hdc in next 2 st, sc in next st, [sc, ch2, sc] in ch 2 space, repeat from * around, 5 more times, sc in next st, hdc in next 2 st, hdc3tog, hdc in next 2 st, sc in last st, sl st into ch 2 space to join round, turn your work.

Rnd 7. Ch 2, *hdc in next 3 st, hdc3tog, hdc in next 3 st, sc in ch 2 space, repeat from * around 5 more times, hdc in next 3 st, dc3tog, hdc in next 3 st, do not join round.  You will work the rest of the bonnet back and forth in rows, turning your work at the end of each row.

Row 1. ch 2 turn, hdc in each stitch around

Row 2. repeat row 1, fasten off main color.  Turn.

Row 3. Join red, ch 2 (counts as 1st hdc), hdc in each stitch across, fasten off.  Turn.

Row 4- 8. Repeat row 3 with each color of the rainbow (orange, yellow, green, blue, violet)

Row 9. Join main color, ch 2, hdc in each st across

Row 10-20, ch 2 turn, hdc in each st across

To Finish: ch 1 to ease around the corner work a border of sc along the bottom edge. Place 1-2 sc into the end of each row. After sc the border into the end of the first 5 rows, ch 45, turn, sl st into the 2nd ch from the hook and in each chain back up to the bonnet. This forms one of the ties. Sl st back into the bottom edge of the bonnet to anchor the tie, continue the sc border around until you come to the 5th row from the front edge on the other side. Add the second ties as previously described. Continue the sc border to the front edge, fasten off, weave in ends.

Please link back to this original pattern when sharing, thanks!

See my other bonnet patterns

Daisy Bonnet

See some of my other patterns

Football Coaster

Starburst Motif

Green Coaster

Baseball Coaster
Posey Coaster
Clover Coaster

Pattern edited 3-26-14

Daisy Bonnet Crochet Pattern

Its been snowing nearly everyday and everyone is sick of the winter weather.  Soon enough spring will arrive and all the flowers will be blooming.  If you can't wait for the real flowers, the cheerful daisy on this bonnet may help.  I made this bonnet in the bright funky colors of a gerbera daisy but you could make the petals white for the classic shasta daisy.

This pattern uses US crochet terms.  If you have any questions, leave a comment and I will do my best to help you.  This pattern fits on my large 6 month old but for an average size baby I would say this is a size 9-12 months.  Using a smaller crochet hook will result in a smaller bonnet.

The materials needed are about 2 ounces of main color worsted weight yarn, scraps yarn for the flower center and petals, a size H crochet hook, a blunt tapestry needle for weaving in ends and scissors.

To make the flower center:

Foundation : ch 3, sl st in 3rd ch from hook to form a ring

Round 1: ch 3, 7 dc into the ring, sl st to top of beginning ch 3 to join, fasten off

To make the petals:

Round 2: Join petal color to any stitch of the flower center, ch 3 (this acts as dc here and throughout), 1 tr, then 1 dc in the same stitch, *dc, tr, dc (petal cluster made) in the next stitch repeat from * around, sl st to top of beginning stitch to join, fasten off. You should have 8 petals.

With main color:

Round 3: Join main color to the space between any two petals, ch 3, dc, ch 1 2 dc in same stitch, *2dc, ch1 2dc (split cluster made) in next space between petals, repeat from * around, sl st to top of beginning stitch to join. You should have 8 split clusters.

Row 1: Sl st in next st and into the ch 1 space of split cluster, ch 3, 2 dc in same space, *3dc in next space, (the space may be between two clusters or the ch 1 space within the cluster), repeat from * around. You should have 16 clusters. Do not join the round.

Row 2: Ch 3, turn the work, skip the first cluster and *3 dc in next space between clusters, repeat from * around. Place 1 dc in the top of the last stitch. You will have 15 clusters.

Row 3: Ch 3, turn, 2 dc in the first space (ch 3 + 2dc make the first cluster), *3 dc in next space between clusters, repeat from * around to the last space. You will have 16 clusters.

Repeat rows 2 & 3 6 more times for a total of 15 rows.

Finishing: ch 1 to ease around the corner, sc evenly around the lower edge placing 2 sc in the end of each row. At the 4th row from the front edge you will place 1 sc, then ch 45, then skip the first ch from the hook and sl st into each chain back up to the bonnet (tie made), then place the 2nd sc into the 4th row and continue the sc border. Once you reach the center back you will skip the 2 slip stitches of round 3 and continue the sc border down the other side. Once you come to the 4th row from the front edge make the second tie in the same way as previously described. Once the tie is made you will continue the sc border in the last 3 rows to the front edge. Ch 1 to ease around the corner then place *1 sc in each of the first 2 dc then 1 sc into the space between the clusters, repeat all the way across the front edge. Fasten off, weave in ends.

Please link back to this original pattern when sharing.

Submitted to Hookin on Hump Day on Moogly
Submitted to Link & Share Wednesday Party at Oombawka Design Crochet
Submitted to Craft Frenzy Friday
Submitted to Hookin On Hump Day on Moogly 

See some of my other patterns

Football Coaster

Starburst Motif

Green Coaster

Baseball Coaster
Posey Coaster
Clover Coaster

Crochet Baby Bibs

I completed several projects for my baby while I was still pregnant.  I had plans to make many more, of course, but its so hard  to anticipate the needs of a person you have yet to meet.  I made several hats only to discover that bonnets stay on better.  I made some booties that were too small for her long feet.  I made wool diaper soakers but never got around too using them before she outgrew them (oops!).  One of the things that I made that have been very useful are bibs.  I made a couple simple cotton bibs using this pattern and cotton yarn from my stash.  The yarn is mostly Sugar'n Cream and some Lion Brand Kitchen Cotton.  These bibs work perfectly for catching drool and keeping her clothes clean and dry.

These are a good size for her now, but it would be incredibly easy to make these larger or smaller by changing hook size or adding a couple extra stitches.  The patterns works up quickly and easily.  A great stash buster!