Spiral Crochet Christmas Stocking

video tutorial

Start at the toe working in continuously spiraling rounds

Toe

with toe color begin with a magic ring

Round 1: sc, hdc, 10 dc into the magic ring working over the ring and the short tail. Pull the short tail pulling your work into a round, do not pull all the way so that you can still see your stitches (12 st)

Round 2: begin crocheting up over the first stitches, 2dc in each stitch around (stitch markers are helpful) (24 st) note: now is a good time to pull the magic ring tightly closed

to make a larger stocking you will add more rounds to the toe, add 12 extra stitches to each round to allow the toe to grow out into a flat disc until it is as large as you want. Experiment to see what size works best for you.

Round 3: dc in each stitch around until the last 2 stitches. Hdc in next st, sc in next st, fasten off toe color.

Foot

With main color (MC), attach in any stitch around on the toe.

Round 1: sc in st where you joined on, hdc in next st, dc in each stitch around.

Note: Once you come back around to the first stitches of round 1 you will no longer work into the toe but into foot (MC) stitches

Round 2: work a modified dc in the first MC st (the sc), dc in next stitch (the hdc), dc in each st around

Note: Modified dc – yo, insert hook into the space between your last stitch and the sc you will work into next, this space is an occupied stitch, the stitch that the sc was worked into at the beginning of the foot, yo pull up a loop, insert your hook into the first sc of the MC, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through 3 loops, yo, pull through 2 loops. The modified dc will act just like a normal dc

Round 3 to the end: dc in each st around. Work rounds of the MC making the tube part of the foot, continue until its as long as you like. Mine was a total of 6 inched measuring from the tip of the toe. Pull up a long loop on the MC but do not fasten off or cut the yarn. Look over your project and see if there is any imperfection at the junction between the toe and the foot that you would like to hide, this will become the bottom. If there is no imperfection then just choose whichever side to be the bottom. Flatten the tube, putting any imperfection at the bottom (the sole of the foot).

To make striped foot you will need to attach 2 or more colors.  Attach the colors evenly around onto the toe.  Each color will remain attached for the entire construction of the foot.  Start each color with sc, hdc, dc to ramp the colors up.  As each color moves up over the other color you may want to do a modified dc as previously explained.  Once your stripe colors are attached you will work several stitches in one color, then drop that color and begin working in the other color.  The stitches will chase each other around.  It may be helpful to refer to my spiral mitten pattern or spiral baby mitten pattern and tutorial which is done in a similar way.  If you have trouble understanding I can make a second video tutorial for the striped version, just leave a comment.

Heel

Heel color can match the foot, match the toe, or be a new color.

The heel is attached, worked in rows, turning at the end of each row. The rows will decrease, then increase making an hourglass shape. Once the heel is stitched we will sew 2 small seams to shape the heel. You can make the heel any width but my suggestion is half the total number of stitches in the round. The example shown in 24 stitches in each round, so the heel begins with 12 stitches. You want to place the 12 stitches evenly along the bottom edge so that half are on the front side of the stocking and half are on the back side. For larger stockings you will divide your total stitches in each round of the foot in half.

Row 1: attach the yarn in the stitch that is 6 stitches before the bottom most stitch. Sc in the st you joined on the yarn, hdc in the next st, dc in the next 8 stitches, hdc in the next st, sc in the next st. ch 2 turn (12 st)

Row 2: dc2tog, then another dc2tog, dc in each st across to the last 4 st, dc2tog then another dc2tog. Ch 2 turn (8 st)

Row 3: 4 dc2tog across, ch 2 turn (4 st)

Note: for larger stockings you may have to do another row with 2 decreases at the beginning and 2 decreases at the end

Row 4: 1 dc in each st across, ch 2 turn (4 st)

Row 5: 2dc in the first 2 st, 2 dc in last 2 st, ch 2 turn (8 st)

Row 6: 2dc in first 2 st, dc across to last 2 st, 2dc in the last two st. fasten off leaving a long tail to seam the heel (12 st)

the rows you made should resemble an hourglass. Fold the hourglass in half, right sides together, match row 6 to row 1, row 5 to row 2 and so on. Using the tail and a yarn needle, sew up the sides of the rows. Work the yarn across to the opposite side and sew the seam on the other side in the same way. Once the seams are sown the rest of that tail will be woven in to hide it. The heel is complete. Make sure you have 12 stitches across the top of the heel.

Leg 

Continue with the foot color(s)

Round 1: work 1 dc in each st around. At the point in which the stitches move up onto the heel you may want to do the modified dc as you did earlier to avoid a gap as your stitches bump up onto the heel

Round 2 1 dc in each st around

Continue with round 2 until the leg is as long as you want

Periodically count stitches to make sure you still have the same number of stitches as you had in the foot. Once the foot is as long as you like you will ease down by making a hdc in the second to last st, and then a sc in the last st. You will want your last stitches to be near the back side of the stocking, where the hanging loop will be. 

 Ch 21 for the hanging loop. You can fasten the chain back down to the stocking for the loop or you can make the chain a bit more sturdy by sl st back down the length of the chain then attaching the far end of your chain back down onto the stocking forming a loop. Leave a tail which you can use to reinforce the hanging loop onto the stocking once you are finished with the stocking.

Cuff  (optional)

(use the heel/toe color or a new color)

Foundation: working from the inside of the stocking, attach the cuff color in the st after the st you made the hanging loop in. sc around putting 4 increases evenly around. Sl st into the first st to join the round (28 st) adding these 4 extra stitches will make your cuff just slightly wider than the stocking so once it is folded down it will lay nicely instead of bunching up.

Ribbing row 1: ch 11, turn

Ribbing row 2: in second ch from the hook sc in back loop of each st down the chain (10 st) sc into next 2 sc on the foundation round, turn

Ribbing row 3: working back up the previous row, sc in the back loop of each sc up the ribbing, ch 1 turn

Ribbing Row 4: sc in the back loop of each sc down the ribbing, sc in next 2 sc on the foundation round, turn.

Repeat rows 3-4 around. Once you have come all the way back around you will work into the last row as well as the first row at the same time. This will close up the back seam of the ribbing. To do this you will insert your hook into the back loop of the sc of the previous row as you had been doing and also the corresponding loop on the first row of the ribbing, sc, repeat until your last row is complete and the seam is closed up. Fasten off

Finishing

Hide ends, fold down cuff, fill with goodies.

Crochet Christmas Tree Ornaments

Happy little crochet Christmas tree ornament

Materials: small amounts of worsted weight yarn, size h (or similar) crochet hook, blunt yarn needle, scissors.

Key : inc – increase, put 2 sc in the stich

Tree

Foundation: ch 2

row 1: 2 sc in 2^nd chain from hook

row 2: sc across, ch 1 turn

row 3: inc in first st, sc across to last stitch, inc in last st

repeat alternating rows 2 & 3 until triangle is 10 rows long and 10 stiches across the bottom edge.

Evenly sc around, adding and extra stitch and extra ch1 in the corners so the border lays flat and smooth.

Repeat for a second triangle, leave a long tail for sewing on one of the triangles

Star

make magic loop

*ch 2, sc in second ch from hook, sl st into magic loop, repeat from * 4 more times. Pull the tail of the magic loop to tighten.

Assemble

decorate the tree with french knots, beads or buttons. Sandwich the 2 halves of the tree with wrong sides together, tucking in any loose ends. Sew the two halves together with the long tail. Catch the star into the stitches at the top of the tree to attach it. Once it is all sewn together join on brown on the bottom edge near the center, sc along the center most 3-5 stitches, *ch 1 turn, sc across, repeat from * until the truck is as long as you like it. Hide any ends that are still stitching out. Add a hanging loop if desired

Super Easy Curly Crochet Ornament 

Starburst Motif Ornament

Seamless Crochet Ear Flap Hat

This is a simple double crochet beanie hat with ear flaps.  This hat is worked in a continuous spiral so there is no seam.  This hat can be a regular beanie or add optional ear flaps.





Seamless Crochet Ear Flap Hat

This pattern is written in US crochet terms.  I used worsted weight yarn and a size H crochet hook.  You will also need a measuring tape or ruler, scissors and a yarn needle to hide your ends.  You will need about 3 ounces of yarn

Notes: Think of this hat in 2 parts (3 parts if you are adding ear flaps). Part 1 is the crown or top of the hat, part 2 is the sides, and optional part 3 is the ear flaps. The crown is a flat disc or slightly cupping disc. With each round the disc will grow wider and wider. Once the crown is as wide as you need it for the size you are making, then you will skip to part 2, the sides of the hat. Part 2 is just 1dc in each st. Continue with part 2 until the hat is as long as you like. For a beanie you will want the hat to hit you around the earlobes or make it longer for a slouchy style or if you will roll the brim up. For an ear flap hat you will want to make your beanie a bit shorter, having it end near the middle of the ear. If you make your ear flap hat too long is will fall over the eyes.

Part 1 

The crown of the hat (this will be a flat or slightly cupping disc)

Begin with a magic loop

1. Work 1 sc (mark this stitch), 1 hdc, 10 dc into the magic loop (working over the loop and the short tail). Pull the short tail to tighten the magic loop (12 stitches)
2. Work 2 dc in each st around (be sure to move the stitch marker from the last round to the first dc of the new round for every round) (24 stitches)
3. *Work 2 dc in the next st, then 1 dc in the next st, repeat from * around 11 more times (36 st)
4. *Work 2 dc in the next st, then 1 dc in the next 2 st, repeat from * around 11 more times (48 st)
5. *Work 2 dc in the next st, then 1 dc in the next 3 st, repeat from * around 11 more times (60 st)
6. *Work 2 dc in the next st, then 1 dc in the next 4 st, repeat from * around 11 more times (72 st)

Can you see how this pattern continues? You will always increase by 12 stitches on each round.

The next row would be

7. *Work 2 dc in the next st, then 1 dc in the next 5 st, repeat from * around 11 more times (84)

Continue until your disc is large enough. Below is a guideline but you can make the crown any size that you want. You do not have to finish a round, you can stop at any point once your disc is the appropriate size. Keep in mind that tightly crocheted hats will have less stretch and loosely crocheted hats will have more give to them

Diameter of hat crown (inches)

Baby : 4-5 inches

Toddler : 5-6 inches

Teen/Adult : 6-7 inches

Part 2 

The sides of the hat

Once the crown is the appropriate size you will continue working dc in a spiraling fashion. Using a stitch marker is no longer needed. You will no longer be increasing and instead of the disc growing wide and wider the disc will begin to cup and the sides of the hat will be formed.

1. 1 dc in the next st and in each stith around until the hat is as long as you like.
2. Once the hat is as long as you like you will need to taper down and fasten off. To do that you will work 1 hdc in the next 3 st, then 1 sc in the next 3 st, then 1 sl st in the next st, fasten off

Part 3 

The ear flaps (optional)

Turn the hat so that the tapering decrease at the end of Part 2 is at the center back, this will help make it less noticeable. You will want to make the location of the earflaps. You can put the hat and make where the ear flaps would need to be to cover the ears, or if that is not possible you will need to estimate. The ear flaps should be slightly set back from center, as this is how your ears are slightly set back.

1. Join the yarn on at the mark where the ear flap starts. To join on you will pinch the new yarn with a spare finger onto the backside of your work (the inside of the hat), insert your hook into the appropriate stitch on the hat, pick up the yarn and pull it through the stitch. Ch 1 and pull on the short tail to snug that ch down and help hold the new yarn on. You will need to continue to hold the yarn on the backside of your work for several stitches until it is secure.
2. Ch 1, starting in the stitch that you joined the yarn on to, dc2tog, dc in the next 6 st, dc2tog over the next 2 st, ch 1 turn your work
   To do dc2tog: yo, insert your hook, yo and pull up a loop, yo and pull through 2 loops on your hook, yo, insert your hook into the next st, yo and pull up a loop, yo through 2 loops, yo and pull through all 3 loops on your hook
3. dc2tog, dc in the next 6 st, dc2tog over the next 2 st, ch 1 turn
4. dc2tog, dc in the next 4 st, dc2tog over the next 2 st, ch 1 turn
5. dc2tog, dc in the next 2 st, dc2tog over the next 2 st, ch 1 turn
6. dc2tog twice, fasten off

To finish: work a border of sc, work 1 sc into each stitch along the bottom edge of the hat and work 1-2 sc into the sides of each row of the ear flaps. More or less stitches may be needed for the sc border to lay flat and look smooth. Hide all the ends of the yarn with a tapestry or yarn needle. Add any embelishements you like such as pom pom, tassels or braids to the ear flaps and/or a pom pom to the top of the hat.

This pattern, tutorial and video are my own creation.  Please link back to this original patterns or video when sharing.  Be sure you check out all of my free crochet patterns.

Easy No Seam Thumbless Baby Mittens ~ No Scratch Mits

These mittens are very similar to the Spiral Baby Mittens only worked in a single color.
This pattern is written in US crochet terms.  I used acrylic worsted weight yard and a size H crochet hook.  You will only need a small amount, about 2 ounces total

1. Ch 4, working into the top loop only,  2 sc in 2nd ch from the hook, 1 sc in top loop of next ch, 2 sc in top loop of next ch\
2. Turn your work upside down, working into the other loop of the foundation chain, 2 sc in the other loop of the st you just worked into, 1 sc into the other loop of the next st, 2 sc in the other loop of the last st
3. Now you will be working under both loops on each stitch as usual. You will not join round with a sl st and you will not turn your work. Place 2 sc in the first sc (this will count as your first increase on this short end, the 2nd increase will occur once you have gone all the way around), then 1 sc in each of the next 3 stitches down the long side, 2 sc in the next 2 sc (here are the 2 increases for this short end), 1 sc in each sc going down the long side
4. Continue spiraling around, increasing by 2 stitches on the short ends, until you have 20 stitches around  You will end with just 1 increase (the first increase was already completed at the beginning of that round)
5. Once you have 20 st you will not longer be increasing on the short ends. Place 1 sc in each stitch. Continue spiraling until the mitten measures 3 inches long (for 0-6 month size) or 3.5 inches (6-12 month size)
6. Next you will work one row of eyelets to lace the drawstring through. To make this row you will *ch 1, skip 1 st, 1 hdc in next st, repeat from * around until you have 10 holes. The 1st and 10th hole will end up on different rows, this is expected and the nature of spiral crochet. Once the drawstring is in it will not be noticeable.
7.  Work 2 sc into the ch 1 space.
8. Now continue sc in each st for 3-4 more rows to make a cuff. Add an increase to the short ends of each row of the cuff to flare it out a little, making it easier to get onto baby's hand.

Once the cuff is as long as you like, fasten off by working a final sl st into the mitten and fasten off  Weave in ends.

For the drawstring: Ch 60 (or as long as you like), fasten off. Tie an overhand knot at each end, weave through the eyelets and tie a bow

I created this pattern and tutorial, please link back to this original pattern or the video tutorial when sharing.  Thanks you

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Rumpled Ripple Rainbow Crochet Baby Afghan Pattern

After I finished my Rumpled Ripple Scarf I knew my next project would be to expand that pattern into an afghan size.  The pattern in essentially the same but for the afghan (and anything larger than a scarf) the foundation chain will need to be more repeats.

This pattern is so squishy and soft and I knew it would make a perfect baby blanket.  I chose an a rainbow of colors, making it as bright and colorful as possible.  This blanket is off to Sweden to the newest baby in our family.

This pattern uses US crochet terms.  I used a variety of acrylic worsted weight yarn. The colors I used
Red - Red Heart Soft Really Red
Orange - Red Heart Super Saver Pumpkin
Yellow- Lion Brand Vanna's Choice Radiant Yellow
Light Green - Lion Brand Vanna's Choice Radiant Lime
Dark Green - Lion Brand Vanna's Choice Kelley Green
Blue Red Heart Soft Teal
Purple - Stitch Studio by Nicole Story Book Lullaby Mulberry
The hook I used was size I.  This finished size of this blanket was about 38" square but your project may end up larger or smaller depending on your hook, yarn and tension.  It may be best to stitch of a swatch of several rows of 1-2 repeats then calculate how many repeats you want based on the finished size you are wanting.

Rumpled Ripples Rainbow Baby Afghan

Special Stitches

Cobble Pattern - alternating dc and sc (each segment of the cobble pattern will be 7 stitches long and start and end with double crochet)

Increase - sc, dc, sc all in the same st

Decrease (worked over 3 stitches)- insert hook into the st, yo, pull up a loop, skip the next st, insert hook into the next st, yo, pull up a loop, yo and pull through all three loops on the hook

Beginning of row decrease (worked over the first 2 stitches of each row starting with row 2)- insert hook into the st, yo and pull up a loop, yo and insert hook into the next st, yo and pull up a loop, yo and pull through 2 loops, yo and pull through all three loops on the hook - This stitch counts as a dc

End of row decrease (worked over the last 2 stitches of each row starting with row 2) - yo and insert the hook into the st, yo and pull up a loop, yo and pull through 2 loops, insert the hook into the next st, yo and pull up a loop, yo and pull through all three loops on the hook- This stitch counts as a dc

Pattern

Video tutorial of this stitch pattern can be found HERE

Foundation chain: ch multiples of 18 -1 (17, 35, 53, 71 etc)  For this afghan I did 9 repeats and my foundation chain was 161.

Row 1: dc in 3rd ch from hook (counts as the first dc in the cobble pattern), *work the cobble pattern for a total of 7 stitches up the side of the front mountain.  Increase in the next ch, work the cobble for a total of 7 stitches down the back side of the mountain, decrease over the next 3 stitches, repeat from * across.  Do not work the final decrease at the very end, just end with the 7 stitches down the back side of the last mountain. Ch 1 turn.

Row 2: Work beginning of row decrease over the first 2 stitches (counts as the first dc of the cobble pattern), *work the cobble pattern for 7 stitches up the front side of the mountain, increase, work cobble pattern for 7 stitches down the back side of the mountain, decrease over the next 3 st, repeat from * across.  Do not work the final decrease, instead work the end of row decrease over the last 2 stitches (will count as the last dc in the cobble pattern), ch 1 turn.

Row 3 and onward: Repeat row 2 changing colors as you like until your project is as long as  you like.  For my project I did 3 rows of each color before changing to the next color.  For the best results from this pattern I recommend using as least 2 colors.

To change colors:  

I find I get the best results if I change colors by finishing the last stitch of the row with the new color.  For this pattern that will be the End of Row Decrease stitch.  Work the stitch as normal but just before the final "yarn over and pull through all three loops on the hook" drop the working yarn to the back, and holding the new color yarn from the back work the final "yarn over and pull through all three loops on the hook" in the new yarn.  The tails from this color change will need to be woven into the work with a yarn needle at the end.

This pattern and these photos are my own work.  Please link back to this blog post when sharing.  Thank you!

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Rumpled Ripple Scarf Pattern

Some people call it zig zag, some people call it ripple or wave, the new trendy name is chevron.  Whatever you call it, its a classic look that I just love.  Most often ripple patterns are made from simple basic stitches such as single crochet or double crochet so they are a great pattern for beginners that are ready for something more than row after row of the same stitch.  Some ripple patterns take motifs from other classic patterns, such as granny ripples or V stitch ripples.  This pattern is borrowing from the cobble stitch pattern.

The cobble stitch (sometimes called griddle stitch) is simply alternating between single crochet and double crochet.  As you come back again with row two you put double crochets into the single crochet and single crochets into the double crochet.  The resulting stitch is thick, textured, and solid.

I wanted to incorporate the texture of the cobble stitch into a ripple pattern for a scarf.  I love the result.  The scarf is solid, with no holes.  Textured but not taking away from the zig zag-ing chevrons.  A simple repeat of a single row so it works up quickly and easily.

This pattern uses US crochet terms.  I used Vanna's Choice Lion Brand yarn,  a medium (#4) worsted weight yarn and size I hook.  Please let me know if you have any questions about this pattern.

Cobble Stitch Ripple Pattern

Special Stitches

Cobble Pattern - alternating dc and sc (each segment of the cobble pattern will be 7 stitches long and start and end with double crochet.

Increase - sc, dc, sc all in the same st

Decrease (worked over 3 stitches)- insert hook into the st, yo, pull up a loop, skip the next st, insert hook into the next st, yo, pull up a loop, yo and pull through all three loops on the hook

Beginning of row decrease (worked over the first 2 stitches of each row starting with row 2)- insert hook into the st, yo and pull up a loop, yo and insert hook into the next st, yo and pull up a loop, yo and pull through 2 loops, yo and pull through all three loops on the hook - This stitch counts as a dc

End of row decrease (worked over the last 2 stitches of each row starting with row 2) - yo and insert the hook into the st, yo and pull up a loop, yo and pull through 2 loops, insert the hook into the next st, yo and pull up a loop, yo and pull through all three loops on the hook- This stitch counts as a dc

Pattern

Foundation chain: ch multiples of 18 -1 (17, 35, 53, 71 etc)  For my scarf I did ch 35 (2 repeats)

Row 1: dc in 3rd ch from hook (counts as the first dc in the cobble pattern), *work the cobble pattern for a total of 7 stitches up the side of the front mountain.  Increase in the next ch, work the cobble for a total of 7 stitches down the back side of the mountain, decrease over the next 3 stitches, repeat from * across.  Do not work the final decrease at the very end, just end with the 7 stitches down the back side of the last mountain. Ch 1 turn.

Row 2: Work beginning of row decrease over the first 2 stitches (counts as the first dc of the cobble pattern), *work the cobble pattern for 7 stitches up the front side of the mountain, increase, work cobble pattern for 7 stitches down the back side of the mountain, decrease over the next 3 st, repeat from * across.  Do not work the final decrease, instead work the end of row decrease over the last 2 stitches (will count as the last dc in the cobble pattern) ch 1 turn.

Row 3 and onward: Repeat row 2 changing colors as you like until your project is as long as  you like.  For my project I did 3 rows of each color before changing to the other color.  For the best results from this pattern I recommend using as least 2 colors.

To change colors:  

I find I get the best results if I change colors by finishing the last stitch of the row with the new color.  For this pattern that will be the End of Row Decrease stitch.  Work the stitch as normal but just before the final "yarn over and pull through all three loops on the hook" drop the working yarn to the back, and holding the new color yarn from the back work the final "yarn over and pull through all three loops on the hook" in the new yarn.  The tails from this color change will need to be woven into the work with a yarn needle at the end.


This pattern and video tutorial is my own creation.  Please link back to this original blog post or video when sharing.

Santa Baby, Long Stocking Cap Crochet Pattern

This hat turned out so cute.  I made it just for personal use but I thought others may like to make one as well.  Like so many of my patterns, this hat is worked in a continuous spiral.  It is so much easier than joining rows and makes for a seamless hat.  I made this hat in classic Santa Claus colors but you could make it in any color combination you like.

This pattern is written with US crochet terms.  You may want to use a stitch marker or a scrap piece of yarn to make the start of each row.  I find its easy enough without stitch markers, so long as you can finish a row before putting it down, and keep track of which row you are on if you do need to set it down.  I have put the stitch count at the end of each row so you can double check yourself as you go.

You will need about 3 ounces of worsted weight yarn in the main color, 1 ounce or less of contrasting color, size H crochet hook (or a similar size would also work), a pom pom maker or a way to make a pom pom or tassel (there are lots of directions online to make pom poms without a pom pom maker) and a length of 1/4 inch elastic (optional)




Long Stocking Cap
With main color, begin with a magic ring, or alternatively you can ch 3, sl st in 3rd ch from the hook to form a loop and work your first stitches into that loop.
Row 1) 1 sc, 1 hdc, 1 dc into the magic ring or loop. (3 stitches)
Row 2) continue around, do not join or start a new row, just continuously spiral around.  Put 2 dc in the first sc you make in row 1, then 2 dc in the next stitch which is the hdc, then 2 dc in the 3rd st from row 1 which is the dc  (6 st)
Row 3) 1 dc in each st around (6 st)
Row 4) *2 dc in the next st, 1 dc in the next 1 st, repeat from * 2 more times (9 st)
Row 5) repeat row 3 (9 st)
Row 6) *2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next 2 st, repeat from * 2 more times (12 st)
Row 7) repeat row 3 (12 st)
Row 8) *2 dc in the next st, 1 dc in the next 3 st, repeat from * 2 more times (15 st)
Row 9) repeat row 3 (15 st)
Row 10) *2 dc in the next st, 1 dc in the next 4 st, repeat from * 2 more times (18 st)
Row 11) repeat row 3 (18 st)
Row 12) *2 dc in the next st, 1 dc in the next 5 st, repeat from * 2 more times (21 st)
Row 13) repeat row 3 (21 st)
Row 14) *2 dc in the next st, 1 dc in the next 6 st, repeat from * 2 more times (24 st)
Row 15) repeat row 3 (24 st)
Row 16) *2 dc in the next st, 1 dc in the next 7 st, repeat from * 2 more times (27 st)
Row 17) repeat row 3 (27 st)
Row 18) *2 dc in the next st, 1 dc in the next 8 st, repeat from * 2 more times (30 st)
Row 19) repeat row 3 (30 st)

can you see where this is going?  you need to continue alternating rows in which you increase by 3 stitches, and rows in which you do not increase at all.

As the hat gets longer is also gets larger around the end.  Just continue in this fashion until the opening of the hat is large enough to fit.  The tail should be correspondingly long enough but if you would like it longer you can do row 3 (the row with no increases) several times to make the hat longer but not larger around.

Once your hat is as long as you like, switch to a new color if you would like a contrasting color for the brim.  Otherwise continue with the same color.  Repeat row 3 (the row with no increases)  5 or more times.  The larger the hat, the larger the brim should be to look balanced.

Finish the hat with a pom pom or tassel on the tip of the tail.  The weight of the pompom/tassel will pull the tail down so that it hangs properly, otherwise your hat may look more like a gnome's hat rather than a jolly old elf's hat.  To fit my little one better I added some 1/4 inch elastic.  Weave in through the dc of the last row in main color.  Once the brim is folded up it will hide the elastic and it provides a better fit.

I hope you enjoy this pattern.  Feel free to make this for your self, to give as a gift or to donate.  No commercial license are available, please do not sell this pattern or the finished item for profit.  It was designed and written by me, please credit me as designer and link back to this original pattern when sharing.  I appreciate your ongoing support, its the only way I can continue to produce patterns and tutorials.

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Curly Crochet Christmas Ornament ~ Pattern and Video Tutorial

I love soft, lightweight ornaments.  You can hang them low without worries of babies or kitties breaking them and you can hang them on even flimsy Charlie Brown style trees without the branches sagging too much. This ornament is incredibly quick and easy to make.  I can make one up in about 5 minutes with about 5 yards of yarn.  You can make them in all sorts of bright colors.  Make up a bunch to give to friends and family but make sure you keep a few for yourself.

This pattern uses US crochet terms.  If you have any questions, leave a comment and I will be sure to get back to you.

You can use any type of yarn (or even thread) for this pattern.  In the tutorial I used Red Heart Super Saver and a size G hook but any hook that matches the yarn you are using would be fine.  Gauge is not very important for this pattern as a slightly larger or smaller ornament would still work and look lovely.  Other than that, the only other tool you will need is a pair of scissors.

BLO - back loop only

ch - chain

dc - double crochet

sl st - slip stitch

Curly Christmas Tree Ornaments

Leave a 6 inch tail at the beginning 

Ch 18 (you can adjust the number of chains, but I recommend not going any shorter than 12 ch) 

3 dc in BLO of 4th ch from the hook and in each ch to the last 2 ch

2 dc in BLO of second to last ch, ch 3, sl st into that same space (the second to last ch)

Ch1 to fasten off, pull a long tail (about 6 inches), clip your working yarn and pull the yarn through that last ch.  Pull snug to tighten that last chain down.

Pull the beginning tail snug to tighten the last ch of the foundation chain down.

Holding the two long tails together, tie an overhand knot to create a hanger, clip the excess tails for a tidy finish.  Shape the ornament with your fingers in whatever shape you like.  

Thank you for checking out my pattern and tutorial!  Feel free to use this pattern for yourself or to give as a gift.  Please link back to this original blog post or the video tutorial when sharing.

You may also be interested in 

Starburst Motif (Christmas Ornament) 

Patriotic Top Hat

Mini Woven Basket (could be used as an ornament)

Sand Dollar Coaster

Simple and Sweet Baby Afghan Pattern and Tutorial

It's baby-palooza in my neck of the woods.  So many friends are having babies and I would love for each one of them to have a special hand made gift from me.  I love handmade gifts for babies for so many reasons.  They are frugal but don't have to look like it. They are a special way to tell the new little one (and mama!) that they are so loved and cherished that you spent a commodity greater than money.  You spent TIME crafting a gift as one of a kind as they are.  While I am taking that precious time to create the gift I like to offer special prayers for the family.  The rhythm of crochet lends itself to prayer and meditation, its the reason so many people enjoy it so much.

As much as I would love to devote hours and hours special intentions for each brand new human.... I have a brand new human of my own to care for (and laundry to fold).  I have a go-to baby blanket pattern that I have used many times but I was looking for something new.  Something that can be done quickly and without too much counting or thought.  I sometimes only get a few minutes to crochet at the end of the day, the last thing my tired brain needs is a complicated pattern.  Bonus points its worked up all in one color so I don't have to go back and weave in ends.

I created this pattern for my most recent baby blanket.  The pattern is very easy.  Repetitive enough that I can work on it without it taking my whole attention but no so repetitive that it's... well, repetitive.




This pattern uses US crochet terms.  The finished size is around 30 inches square.  You can adjust the finished size by adjusting the foundation chain and the number of rows.  Materials needed are: 14 ounces worsted weight yarn (I used Bernat Satin in color Fern), size I crochet hook, yarn needle and scissors.

Special Stitches
Double Crochet 3 Together (dc3tog)
Yo, insert hook into the first st, yo and pull up a loop, yo and pull through 2 loops on the hook.  You have 2 loops on hook.  Yo, insert hook into the next st, yo and pull up a loop, yo and pull thorough 2 loops on the hook.  You have 3 loops on the hook.  Yo, insert the hook into the next st, yo and pull up a loop, yo and pull through 2 loops on the hook.  You have 4 loops on the hook.  Yo and pull through all 4 loops on the hook.

Foundation
Ch 134 (or any multiple of 3 + 5)
Row 1: Skip first 4 ch from the hook, *dc3tog over the next 3 ch, ch 2, repeat from * to the end of the foundation ch.  Dc in the very last ch of the foundation chain.
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, 2 sc in the first ch 2 sp, *3 sc in the next ch 2 sp, repeat from * across, 3 sc in the last space made by the turning ch.
Row 3:  Ch 4, skip the very first st, *dc3tog over the next 3 st, ch 2, repeat from * across, dc in the last sc.
Repeat rows 2 and 3 ending on row 3 for a total of 72 rows or until the project is as long as you like.
Finishing:
Sc around all four sides as a simple border.  To begin, ch 1 to ease around the corner.  Working down the first side work 2 sc around the dc at the ends of row 3 and 1 sc in the ends of row 2, ch 1 to ease around the corner.  Along the bottom edge work 1 sc into the remaining loop of each ch of the foundation ch, ch 1 to ease around the corner.  Work up the other side as you did the first side, ch 1 to ease around the corner. Working along the top edge, put 3 sc in each ch 2 sp, sl st into the beginning ch1 of the border, fasten off.  Weave in ends.


Here is a close up photo of the beginning of row 3 to show exactly where you will start.  I hope this helps :)

This pattern and tutorial is my own creations.  Please credit me as designer and link to the original pattern or video when sharing.  This pattern is available at no charge to you for your own personal use, to make a gift, or to donate.  I ask that you do not sell finished items and do not sell this pattern or claim it as your own.  Thank you

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Spiral Baby Mittens

Crochet Flower Band Market Bag Pattern and Tutorial

A large and slouchy bohemian inspired market bag with a pretty flower band detail.  With this market bag you can bring home all the goodies from the farmers market, or use as a beach bag or shoulder bag.

This pattern uses US crochet terms.  If you have any questions, leave a comment and I will do my best to help you out.

To make this bag I used three 2.5 ounce balls of Sugar and Cream yarn, a size G crochet hook, scissors and a tapestry needle.

Bottom of the bag
Rnd 1: Ch 8, sl st to form a ring, ch 4,(acts as tr here and throughout) 23 tr in ring, sl st into top of beginning ch 4 to join (24 tr)

Rnd 2: Ch 6, *tr in next tr, ch 2, repeat from * around,sl st in the 4th ch of beginning ch 6 to join.(24 tr and 24 ch 2 spaces)

Rnd 3: Ch 1, 2sc in the ch 2 sp, *3 sc in the next sp, repeat from * around, sl in the ch 1 to join. (72 sc)

Rnd 4: Ch 4, tr around, st st in the top of the beginning ch 4 (72 tr)

Rnd 5: Ch 6, * skip 1 st, tr in the next st, ch 2, repeat from * around, sl st into the 4th ch of the beginning ch 6. (36 tr and 36 ch 2 sp)

Rnd 6: ch 1, 2 sc in ch 2 space, *3 sc in the next ch 2 sp, repeat from * around, sl st into beginning ch 1 to join (108 sc)

Rnd 7: Ch 4, tr in each sc around, sl st into top of beginning ch 4 to join. (108 tr)

Sides

Rnd 1: ch 6, *skip 1 tr, tr in next tr, ch 2, repeat from * around, sl st into 4th ch of beginning ch 6 to join.

Rnd 2: Ch 1, sl st into the next ch 2 sp, ch 6,* tr in the next ch 2 sp, ch 2, repeat from * around, sl st into the 4th ch of the beginning ch 6.

Repeat row 2 for 14 more times or until the bag is as long as you like. Keep in mind, there will be a 2-3 inch decorative band at the top and the bag will stretch slightly.

Last row: ch 1, sc in next ch 2 sp, * 2 sc in each ch 2 space, repeat from * around, sl st into beginning ch 1 to join the round.

Flower Band

~ The flower row is actually 2 rows. First you will work the bottom half which includes the bottom petal and the bottom half of the petals on either side. The second row will make the upper petal as well as complete side petals~

Bottom Half of First Flower:
ch 8, working down the back side of that ch put 1 dc in the 4th st from hook (this is 1st petal), ch 4, dc in 4th ch from hook (this is the second petal, the ch stitch the dc is worked into becomes the center of the flower). Now counting on the sc along the top edge of the bag, sl st into the 3rd sc, dc, ch 3. Turn your work. Flip the petals so that the flower center is pointing up to the sky. Now you will sl st into the center of the flower. Ch 3, dc into the center, (this will start the 3rd petal). Now turn your work back to its original position. Ch 1, counting on the foundation ch, tr into the 3rd ch. ( bottom half of first flower complete).
Bottom Half of Additional Flowers: (This is the same as the first flower except the beginning ch is 5 instead of 8)
*ch 5, dc into the 4th ch from the hook, ch 4, dc in the 4th ch from the hook, counting on the bag, sl st into the 3rd ch, turn work, (flip petals if necessary so that center of the flower is pointing up) dc, ch 3, sl st into the center of the flower, ch 3, dc into center, ch 1, (turn work back), counting on the bag, tr into the 3rd sc, repeat from * to the end. On the last flower you will not do the final tr, instead you will join the round by sl st around the beginning ch near the petal of the first flower.
Top Half of Flowers:

*dc into the flower center, ch 3, sl st into the flower center (side petal complete), ch 3, 2dc into the center, ch 3, sl st into the center (top petal complete), ch 3, dc into the center, sl st in the space between the petal and the tr, ch 1, sl st in the space between the tr and the petal of the next flower, repeat from * around (do not “ch 1, sl st in the space between tr and the petal of the next flower” on the last flower.

Ch 7, *sc in the space between the dc of the next top petal, ch 3, tr in the ch 1 space between the flowers, ch 3, repeat from * around (do not “tr in the ch1 space between flowers, ch 3” in the last flower), sl st in the 4th ch of the beginning ch 7.

Ch 1, 2 sc in the ch 3 sp, *3 sc in the ch 3 sp, repeat from * around sl st in beginning ch 1 to join

Strap

Row 1: Ch 2, dc2tog over the next 2 sc, dc in the next 23 sc, dc2tog over the next 2 sc, ch 2 turn

Row 2-9: dc2tog over the first 2 sc, sc across to the last 2 st, dc2tog over the last 2 st, ch 2 turn

Row 10-20: dc in each st across, ch 2 turn

Row 21-29: 2dc in the first st, dc across to last st, 2 dc in the last st, ( do not “ch 2 turn” on the last row)

Fasten off, leave a long tail.

Attach the other end of the strap to the top of the bag directly across. Count 27 st from each side of the strap base and mark with a scrap of yarn. Attach the other end of the strap to the top edge of the bag between the scraps of yarn. Sew a secure seam with the tail. Line up the stitches on the strap with the stitches on the upper edge of the bag. Sew along the seam sewing the inner loops together, then go back across sewing the outer loops together. (or otherwise sew a secure seam in any manner you wish)

Weave in loose ends. Block if necessary.

This pattern is my own creation.  Feel free to make a bag for yourself or to give as a gift but I ask that you please credit me as designer and link back to this original pattern or the video tutorial link when sharing.

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Flower Band Headband, Belt or Trim
Mini Woven Basket
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Paw Patrol Crochet Skye

My niece requested a Skye doll from the show Paw Patrol.  There are some patterns available for purchase but none that seemed like they really looked like Skye so I free handed this project.  She ended up a little bigger (and top heavy) than I expected but I'm pretty pleased with how she turned out.  I did not create this character, but I did create this crocheted doll of the character.

Here are some in-progress pictures!

Thanks for taking a look!

You may also be interested in my Pangolin free hand project

This project was submitted to Hookin on Humpday at Moogly

Nursing Necklace Crochet Pattern and Tutorial

This pattern makes several components that can be combined in many ways to make nursing or teething necklaces.  These are worn by an adult and give baby something to grab and play.  They help minimize distractions and can help reduce pinching or scratching.  They can also be used when you are not nursing to give your little one something safe to grab other than your glasses or hair.  I like to loop them onto the shopping cart handle to occupy my babe while grocery shopping.  Omit the necklace and you can use some of the components to make a small toy.

I like to use bright colorful yarn but you could make more muted colors to better suit your wardrobe.  Younger babies are attracted to the high contrast of black and white.

I used cotton yarn, you can use any medium weight yarn but remember your baby will likely chew on it so avoid fuzzy yarns and be sure the yarn is washable.  You can use a size G or similar sized crochet hook.  As with all baby items, wash before use, periodically inspect the necklace, and supervise baby at play.



Necklace
Ch 125 or as long as you would like.  Remember this will need to be long enough to slip easily over your head.  After you thread your component onto the necklace you will close it by holding the 2 ends together and tie an overhand knot.  You can also use a ribbon or cord.

Ring
Ch 5
Sc in 5th ch from hook to form a ring, sc in the next 4 ch, do not join, continue spiraling around putting 1 sc in each st.
It may be difficult at first but once the tube begins to grow it will become easier.
Continue sc around and around until the tube is as long as you like.
A 6.5" tube makes a 2.5" diameter ring
When your tube is as long as you like, finish off by sl st into the last st, fasten off leaving a tail.  Add mini rings if desired, then using the tail sew the tube into a ring.

Mini Ring
Ch 12
Sc in 12th ch from hook to form a ring, sc in next 11 ch, do not join, continue spiraling around putting 1 sc in each st.  Continue spiraling around until the mini ring is about 1/2 - 1 inch wide or as wide as you like.
Finish off by sl st into the last st, fasten off, weave in ends.

Tube Bead
Ch 7
Sc in in 7th ch from hook to make a ring, sc in next 6 ch, do not join, continue spiraling around putting 1 sc in each st.  Continue spiraling to make the tube is 1/2 -1 1/2 inch or as long as you want.
Finish by sl st in last st, fasten off, weave in ends.

Spiral Bead
(The spiral bead is worked with 2 colors attached at the same time, but working with one yarn at a time.)
With color A ch 7
Sc in the 7th ch from the hook to make a ring, sc in the next 3 ch, pull up a big loop of color A, do not fasten off.
Join on color B into the next ch, sc in the same ch and in the next 2 ch, do not join, continue spiraling around putting 1 sc in each st.  You will be able to work 2-3 sc with the color B, then drop that color, (pull up a long loop to prevent your stitches from being pulled out) and pick up the other color again.
Work 1 sc in each st until you come up behind the other color, then drop that yarn and pick up the other yarn and continue around.  Continue in this fashion until your bead is as long as you like.

Assembling
Bead and spiral bead are threaded onto the necklace.  Hold the ends of the necklace and tie an overhand knot to close the necklace.  Find the center of the necklace and insert the loop through the center of the ring, reach through the loop the necklace makes and pull the necklace through the loop. Tighten and adjust.

You may also be interested in:
Baby Teether Toys
Spiral Baby Mittens
Flower Band
Mini Woven Basket

This project was submitted to Hookin On Humpday at Moogly